Homerloew
Guest
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 Posted:
Wed Jan 26, 2005 7:41 pm Post subject:
Re: Process question for architectural users |
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From TRJ: "Ever tried to snap a chalk line representing the center of a wall and align
the wall plate to it? It's loads of fun. Dimensioning to the center of walls
impedes the framer."
Are you kidding me?
A dimension should be from outside of sheeting to center of windows, doors or walls. Then from center to center until you reach the end of the wall. Then the final dimensions should add up. When I lay out a wall I ALWAYS make sure they do.
Why I do this: When I lay out a wall I hook my tape on the outside of the sheeting and mark the center of the wall then mark 1 3/4" on each side. IMO any good layout man can do this without much thought. Then both OUTSIDE lines are snapped and the wall is put between them. I could spend all day explaining why 2 lines are the way to go, or why I ALWAYS use red chalk, but why waste the time.
From Tom: "I've consistently
seen fewer errors when walls were dimensioned to centerline, and I've
personally seen it to be much easier to handle in the field"
I agree 100%
I will say there are many ways to do things, some better some worse. Sometimes it just doesn't matter. I have always stayed away from scribing like Tom has stated for one main reason. That being you cannot trust that every 2x4 will be exactly the same. Heck, overnight a stud can warp just enough to cause problems.
For the most part I don't disagree with Tom except, ALWAYS measure. As long as you can read a tape measure you will be better off than scribing.
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Gordon Price
Guest
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Thu Jan 27, 2005 1:27 am Post subject:
Re: Process question for architectural users |
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"Homerloew" <nospam@address.withheld> wrote
| Quote: | A dimension should be from outside of sheeting to center of windows, doors
or walls. Then from center to center until you reach the end of the wall.
Then the final dimensions should add up. When I lay out a wall I ALWAYS
make sure they do.
Why I do this: When I lay out a wall I hook my tape on the outside of the
sheeting and mark the center of the wall then mark 1 3/4" on each side.
IMO any good layout man can do this without much thought. Then both
OUTSIDE lines are snapped and the wall is put between them. I could spend
all day explaining why 2 lines are the way to go, or why I ALWAYS use red
chalk, but why waste the time.
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I know builders who will say that second line is a waste of time. Place one
line, then use a builders crayon to mark the side of the line the wall goes
on. Kind of like marking a cut line, and which side is waste, rather than
two lines to put the saw blade between. And the wall is framed on the
'waste' side so when you silt it up you see the line till the last moment,
then it is bumped as needed to align correctly. Not that this is the only
way, or the best way, just the way some builders I know prefer to work.
As for dimensioning to center of windows, this works most of the time, but I
have had occation to dimension a design where a single window on one floor
was supposed to line up with the edge of a long group of ganged windows on
another floor. The single window and the first ganged window where
dimensioned from outside corner of building to nearest edge of window frame,
and the rest of the windows where shown with NO dimensions. The builder took
the ganged window count and calculated the R.O. based on the manufacturers
formula. We did sho an overall R.O., with a note to discuss with the
architect if the actual windows chosen resulted in an R.O. more than 2"
different from that shown.
Best,
Gordon |
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